Whether you are a consumer trying to make more informed product choices, a DIY formulator learning to build your own skincare products, or a small business owner developing a product range, understanding INCI (International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients) is one of the most useful skills you can develop. It is the universal language of cosmetic formulation, used on product labels in Australia, the European Union, the United States, and most other regulated markets worldwide.
What Is INCI and Why Does It Exist?
INCI stands for International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients. It is a standardised naming system developed and maintained by the Personal Care Products Council (PCPC) and adopted internationally to ensure that cosmetic ingredients are identified consistently, regardless of the country where a product is manufactured or sold.
Before INCI existed, the same ingredient might be called by dozens of different names depending on the manufacturer, country, or trade tradition. Jojoba oil, for example, might appear as "jojoba oil," "jojoba seed oil," "oil of jojoba," or any number of trade names. INCI resolved this by assigning every cosmetic ingredient a single, standardised name — Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil — that is used on labels globally.
In Australia, INCI labelling is required for all cosmetic products sold commercially. The requirement is part of the broader cosmetic product labelling standards, and non-compliance can create regulatory and liability issues for product manufacturers and brands.
The Four Rules That Govern Every INCI Ingredient List
Once you understand the rules that govern how an INCI list is structured, you can extract a surprising amount of information from any product label — even without knowing the function of every individual ingredient.
Rule 1: Ingredients are listed in descending order of concentration
The ingredient present in the highest concentration is listed first, followed by the next highest, and so on down to the ingredient present in the smallest amount. This means the first five or six ingredients on any label typically make up the vast majority of the product — often 80–95% of the total formula by weight.
This rule is why water (Aqua) appears first on most lotions, creams, and serums — it is almost always the largest single component of a water-based formula, typically comprising 60–80% of the total weight.
Rule 2: Ingredients at or below 1% can be listed in any order
Once you reach ingredients present at 1% or less by weight, the strict descending order no longer applies — they can be listed in any order after the ingredients above 1%. This is why you will often see a cluster of active ingredients, fragrances, and preservatives near the end of an ingredient list, even if some of them are more "active" or valuable than the ingredients listed before them.
This is an important nuance for consumers: an ingredient appearing near the end of the list is not necessarily ineffective — many highly active cosmetic ingredients (such as retinol, peptides, and certain botanical extracts) are used at concentrations well below 1% because that is their effective dose range. The position on the label tells you about concentration, not efficacy.
Rule 3: INCI names follow specific naming conventions by ingredient type
The format of an INCI name tells you something about the type of ingredient it is. Once you learn to recognise these patterns, you can identify ingredient categories at a glance.
| Ingredient Type | INCI Naming Convention | Example |
|---|---|---|
| Plant-derived oils | [Genus Species] + Seed Oil, Kernel Oil, or Fruit Oil | Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil (jojoba), Rosa Canina Fruit Oil (rosehip) |
| Plant-derived butters | [Genus Species] + Seed Butter or Fruit Butter | Butyrospermum Parkii Butter (shea), Mangifera Indica Seed Butter (mango) |
| Water | Aqua (the Latin word for water) | Aqua |
| Synthetic or chemical ingredients | Chemical or systematic name, often capitalised | Glycerin, Niacinamide, Phenoxyethanol |
| Polymers and thickeners | Often end in -mer, -gum, or -cellulose | Carbomer, Xanthan Gum, Hydroxyethylcellulose |
| Emulsifiers | Often contain "Cetearyl," "Stearate," "PEG," or "Polysorbate" | Cetearyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Polysorbate 80 |
| Preservatives | Listed by chemical name; often near the end of the list | Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Benzoate |
| Fragrance / parfum | Parfum (EU/Australia) or Fragrance (US) — a collective term | Parfum |
| Colourants | CI (Colour Index) number | CI 77891 (titanium dioxide), CI 77491 (iron oxide red) |
Rule 4: Fragrance components may be listed individually if they are known allergens
In the European Union (and increasingly in Australia), specific fragrance compounds that are known skin sensitisers must be listed individually on the label if they are present above certain concentration thresholds — even though they are part of a fragrance blend. This is why you sometimes see ingredients like Linalool, Limonene, or Citronellol listed after Parfum on a product label.
Decoding a Real Ingredient List: A Worked Example
Let us work through a realistic ingredient list for a hydrating face cream and identify what each ingredient is doing in the formula.
Example label: Hydrating Face Cream
| INCI Name | Common Name | Function in Formula | Approx. % Range |
|---|---|---|---|
| Aqua | Water | Solvent; forms the water phase of the emulsion | 60–75% |
| Glycerin | Glycerin | Humectant; draws moisture to the skin | 3–8% |
| Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride | MCT Oil / Fractionated Coconut Oil | Emollient; lightweight skin-feel oil | 5–15% |
| Cetearyl Alcohol | Cetearyl Alcohol (fatty alcohol) | Emulsifier / thickener; creates stable emulsion and creamy texture | 2–5% |
| Butyrospermum Parkii Butter | Shea Butter | Emollient; rich in fatty acids; improves skin texture | 2–8% |
| Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil | Jojoba Oil | Emollient; technically a liquid wax; excellent skin compatibility | 2–5% |
| Sodium Hyaluronate | Hyaluronic Acid (sodium salt) | Humectant; holds up to 1,000× its weight in water | 0.1–2% |
| Tocopherol | Vitamin E | Antioxidant; protects formula and skin from oxidative damage | 0.1–1% |
| Phenoxyethanol | Phenoxyethanol (preservative) | Preservative; prevents microbial growth | 0.5–1% |
| Ethylhexylglycerin | Ethylhexylglycerin (preservative booster) | Preservative booster; enhances efficacy of phenoxyethanol | 0.1–0.5% |
Reading this label, you can now see that this is a water-in-oil emulsion with glycerin as the primary humectant, MCT oil and shea butter as the main emollients, a fatty alcohol emulsifier system, hyaluronic acid and vitamin E as active ingredients at low concentrations, and a phenoxyethanol/ethylhexylglycerin preservative system. That is a complete functional picture of the product — from a single ingredient list.
The Most Common INCI Names and What They Mean
The following reference table covers the INCI names you will encounter most frequently in skincare formulation — particularly when working with ingredients from SSC's catalogue. Bookmark this table and use it as a quick-reference when reading labels or writing your own INCI lists.
| INCI Name | Common Name | Function |
|---|---|---|
| Aqua | Water | Solvent / water phase base |
| Glycerin | Glycerin / Glycerol | Humectant |
| Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice | Aloe Vera Gel | Humectant / soothing |
| Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil | Jojoba Oil | Emollient / liquid wax |
| Rosa Canina Fruit Oil | Rosehip Oil | Emollient / antioxidant |
| Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil | Argan Oil | Emollient / antioxidant |
| Butyrospermum Parkii Butter | Shea Butter | Emollient / occlusive |
| Mangifera Indica Seed Butter | Mango Butter | Emollient / occlusive |
| Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter | Cocoa Butter | Emollient / occlusive |
| Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride | MCT Oil / Fractionated Coconut | Lightweight emollient |
| Sodium Hyaluronate | Hyaluronic Acid (sodium salt) | Humectant / hydrator |
| Tocopherol | Vitamin E | Antioxidant / preservative booster |
| Cetearyl Alcohol | Cetearyl Alcohol (fatty alcohol) | Emulsifier / thickener |
| Xanthan Gum | Xanthan Gum | Thickener / stabiliser |
| Phenoxyethanol | Phenoxyethanol | Preservative |
| Ethylhexylglycerin | Ethylhexylglycerin | Preservative booster / skin conditioner |
| Citric Acid | Citric Acid | pH adjuster |
| Parfum | Fragrance / Parfum | Fragrance blend (collective term) |
| Zinc Oxide | Zinc Oxide | UV filter / mineral sunscreen agent |
| Kaolin | Kaolin Clay | Absorbent / mattifying |
What to Actually Look For When Reading a Label
Now that you understand the structure of an INCI list, here is how to use that knowledge practically — whether you are evaluating a product to buy, reverse-engineering a formula, or writing your own INCI list for a product you have made.
Check the first five ingredients. These make up the majority of the product. If the first ingredient is water and the second is a low-cost filler like glycerin, followed by a cheap emollient, the product is likely a basic formulation regardless of what is listed further down. If the first few ingredients are high-quality actives or premium oils, the product is likely genuinely concentrated.
Look for your key active near the top of the sub-1% cluster. If a brand claims their product is "packed with rosehip oil" but rosehip oil (Rosa Canina Fruit Oil) appears near the very end of the list — after the preservatives — it is present at a very low concentration, likely below 0.5%. This is not necessarily dishonest, but it is worth knowing.
Identify the preservative system. Every water-containing product must have a preservative. If you cannot identify a preservative in the ingredient list, either the product is anhydrous (oil-only, no water) or the preservative is listed under a name you do not recognise. Common preservative INCI names include Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate, Caprylyl Glycol, and Benzyl Alcohol.
Distinguish between fragrance and essential oils. Parfum on a label means a synthetic or blended fragrance. If a product uses essential oils, they will be listed by their INCI name (e.g., Lavandula Angustifolia Oil for lavender essential oil). Both can cause sensitivity reactions in some people — the key is knowing which you are dealing with.
For DIY Formulators: Writing Your Own INCI List
If you are making cosmetic products to sell, you are legally required to label them with a correct INCI ingredient list. Here is the process:
Step 1: Get the INCI name for every ingredient. Your supplier should provide this. At SSC, the INCI name is listed on every product page and in the SDS/COA documentation. If you are unsure, the CosIng database (the EU's official cosmetic ingredient database) is a reliable free reference.
Step 2: List ingredients in descending order of weight percentage. Use your formula's weight percentages to determine the order. If two ingredients are at the same percentage, either order is acceptable.
Step 3: Group ingredients at or below 1% at the end. Any ingredient at 1% or below can be listed in any order after the ingredients above 1%. This is where your preservative, antioxidant, fragrance, and low-concentration actives will typically appear.
Step 4: List colourants last. Colour additives (listed as CI numbers) are typically placed at the very end of the ingredient list, regardless of their concentration.
Frequently Asked Questions
Why is water listed as "Aqua" and not "Water" on cosmetic labels?
INCI uses Latin and systematic chemical names for consistency across languages. "Aqua" is the Latin word for water and is the standardised INCI name used globally. Some products list both — "Aqua (Water)" — which is acceptable and helpful for consumer clarity.
Does an ingredient listed last mean it does nothing?
No. Many highly effective cosmetic ingredients are used at very low concentrations — often below 0.5% or even 0.1% — because that is their effective dose range. Retinol, peptides, and many botanical extracts are examples. Position on the INCI list tells you about concentration, not about whether the ingredient is effective at that concentration.
What does "fragrance-free" mean on a label?
"Fragrance-free" means no fragrance compounds — synthetic or natural — have been added to the product for scent. It does not mean the product has no smell; some ingredients have a natural odour. "Unscented" is a different claim — it means the product has no perceptible scent, but may contain masking fragrances to neutralise the natural odour of ingredients.
Where can I look up INCI names for ingredients?
The most reliable free resource is the CosIng database maintained by the European Commission (ec.europa.eu/growth/tools-databases/cosing). The PCPC's International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary is the authoritative source but requires a subscription. Your ingredient supplier should also be able to provide the correct INCI name for any product they sell — this is a baseline documentation requirement.
Start Formulating With Ingredients You Can Trust
Every ingredient in SSC's catalogue comes with its correct INCI name, SDS, and COA — so you always have the documentation you need for labelling and compliance. Browse our full range of cosmetic-grade carrier oils, butters, actives, and bases below.
Browse Carrier Oils → Browse Raw Ingredients →
All products from The Skin Science Company are intended for cosmetic use only. Nothing in this article constitutes regulatory or legal advice. Formulators and product manufacturers are responsible for ensuring their products comply with all applicable Australian cosmetic regulations, including correct INCI labelling. Consult a qualified regulatory consultant for advice specific to your products.
