A facial moisturiser is one of the most technically demanding products in cosmetic formulation. Unlike an anhydrous face oil or a simple body butter, a moisturiser is an emulsion — a stable combination of water and oil phases held together by an emulsifier system. Getting the emulsion stable, aesthetically elegant, and genuinely effective requires understanding each phase and the role every ingredient plays within it.
This guide walks through the complete process of formulating a natural facial moisturiser from scratch — from selecting the right emulsifier and carrier oils to choosing humectants, actives, and preservatives. Every ingredient referenced is available from The Skin Science Company, and a full working formula is included at the end.
Understanding Emulsion Structure
A facial moisturiser is typically an oil-in-water (O/W) emulsion — oil droplets dispersed throughout a continuous water phase. This structure gives moisturisers their characteristic lightweight, fast-absorbing feel compared to pure oils or butters. The emulsifier is the ingredient that makes this possible: it has both hydrophilic (water-loving) and lipophilic (oil-loving) portions that sit at the oil-water interface and prevent the two phases from separating.
Phase A (Water Phase): Distilled water, hydrosols, water-soluble humectants (Glycerin, Hyaluronic Acid), and water-soluble actives.
Phase B (Oil Phase): Carrier oils, butters, waxes, and oil-soluble actives (Vitamin E, Bakuchi Oil).
Phase C (Emulsifier + Thickener): The emulsifier system that binds Phase A and Phase B. Added at the end of heating before combining.
Phase D (Cool-Down Actives + Preservative): Heat-sensitive actives and preservatives added below 40°C to protect their efficacy.
Selecting Your Emulsifier
The emulsifier is the most critical ingredient in any moisturiser formula. The wrong emulsifier — or the wrong usage rate — will result in an unstable emulsion that separates within days. For natural facial moisturisers, the most reliable emulsifier options are:
| Emulsifier | INCI Name | Usage Rate | Texture Result | Best For |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Emulsifying Wax NF | Cetearyl Alcohol, Polysorbate 60 | 3–8% | Rich, creamy lotion | Beginners, stable everyday moisturisers |
| Olivem 1000 | Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate | 3–5% | Silky, skin-identical feel | Natural/organic formulations, sensitive skin |
| BTMS-50 | Behentrimonium Methosulfate, Cetearyl Alcohol | 3–6% | Lightweight, conditioning | Facial moisturisers, hair conditioners |
| Glyceryl Stearate SE | Glyceryl Stearate | 2–5% (co-emulsifier) | Pearlescent, creamy | Used alongside primary emulsifier for stability |
Choosing Your Carrier Oils and Butters
The oil phase of a facial moisturiser typically makes up 15–30% of the total formula. The carrier oils and butters you choose determine the skin feel, absorption rate, and functional benefits of the finished product. For a facial moisturiser, prioritise lightweight, non-comedogenic oils that absorb well without leaving a greasy residue.
Excellent choices for the oil phase of a facial moisturiser include:
- Jojoba Oil — a wax ester that closely mimics skin sebum; non-comedogenic and stable
- Argan Oil — lightweight, high in tocopherols, excellent for normal to dry skin
- Rosehip Oil — high in linoleic and linolenic acid, ideal for anti-aging and barrier repair
- Hemp Seed Oil — ideal Omega-6:Omega-3 ratio, excellent for oily and combination skin
- Grapeseed Oil — very lightweight, high linoleic acid, suitable for oily and acne-prone skin
- Avocado Oil — rich and nourishing, best for dry and mature skin types
- Macadamia Oil — silky skin feel, high palmitoleic acid, excellent for mature skin
- Bakuchi Oil — the natural retinol alternative; use at 1–5% as an anti-aging active
For butters, use at low percentages (1–5%) to add richness without making the formula too heavy:
- Mango Butter — lightweight, non-greasy, excellent for facial formulations
- Shea Butter — rich in triterpenes and tocopherols; use refined shea for a neutral scent in facial products
- Kokum Butter — very hard butter, use at 1–2% max to add body without heaviness
The Water Phase: Humectants and Hydrosols
The water phase is where humectants — ingredients that draw moisture into the skin — are dissolved. The most effective humectants for facial moisturisers are:
- Glycerin — the most versatile humectant; use at 3–5% in a facial moisturiser. At higher concentrations it can feel sticky.
- Hyaluronic Acid Powder — a high-molecular-weight humectant that forms a moisture-retaining film on the skin surface. Use at 0.1–0.5% dissolved in warm water.
- Sodium PCA — a naturally occurring component of the skin's Natural Moisturising Factor (NMF); use at 1–3%.
- Aloe Vera Powder — reconstituted aloe vera juice; use at 1–5% for soothing and humectant properties.
You can also replace part of the distilled water with a hydrosol for added skin benefits and a pleasant natural scent:
- Rose Hydrosol — soothing, slightly astringent, excellent for normal to dry skin
- Lavender Hydrosol — calming and anti-inflammatory, suitable for sensitive skin
- Chamomile Hydrosol — the most soothing hydrosol option for reactive or sensitive skin
Preservation: Non-Negotiable for Water-Containing Products
Any product containing water — including hydrosols — requires a broad-spectrum preservative. Without one, bacterial and mould contamination can occur within days, even in products that look and smell fine. This is a safety requirement, not optional.
Full Formula: Natural Balancing Facial Moisturiser
This formula is designed for normal to combination skin. The oil phase is deliberately lightweight — Jojoba Oil and Argan Oil as the primary oils, with Hemp Seed Oil for its linoleic acid content and Mango Butter for a silky skin feel. Olivem 1000 is used as the emulsifier for its skin-identical lipid profile and natural origin. Hyaluronic Acid and Glycerin provide humectancy in the water phase, and Rose Hydrosol replaces part of the distilled water for added skin benefits.
| Phase | Ingredient (INCI Name) | % (w/w) | Weight (for 100g) |
|---|---|---|---|
| A | Distilled Water (Aqua) | 50.0% | 50.0g |
| A | Rose Hydrosol (Rosa Damascena Flower Water) | 15.0% | 15.0g |
| A | Glycerin (Glycerin) | 4.0% | 4.0g |
| A | Hyaluronic Acid Powder (Sodium Hyaluronate) | 0.2% | 0.2g |
| B | Jojoba Oil (Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil) | 8.0% | 8.0g |
| B | Argan Oil (Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil) | 5.0% | 5.0g |
| B | Hemp Seed Oil (Cannabis Sativa Seed Oil) | 4.0% | 4.0g |
| B | Mango Butter (Mangifera Indica Seed Butter) | 3.0% | 3.0g |
| B | Vitamin E Oil (Tocopherol) | 0.5% | 0.5g |
| C | Olivem 1000 (Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate) | 4.0% | 4.0g |
| C | Cetyl Alcohol (Cetyl Alcohol) | 1.5% | 1.5g |
| D | Preservative Eco (Benzyl Alcohol, Salicylic Acid, Glycerin, Sorbic Acid) | 0.8% | 0.8g |
| D | Bakuchi Oil (Psoralea Corylifolia Seed Oil) | 3.0% | 3.0g |
| D | Lavender Essential Oil (Lavandula Angustifolia Oil) | 1.0% | 1.0g |
| TOTAL | 100.0% | 100.0g |
Method of Manufacture:
Adjusting the Formula for Different Skin Types
| Skin Type | Adjustments to Make |
|---|---|
| Oily / Acne-Prone | Replace Argan Oil with Grapeseed Oil. Replace Mango Butter with additional Jojoba Oil. Reduce total oil phase to 15%. Add Niacinamide at 2% in Phase A. |
| Dry / Mature | Replace Hemp Seed Oil with Avocado Oil. Add Shea Butter at 3% in Phase B. Increase total oil phase to 25%. Add Sea Buckthorn Oil at 1% in Phase D. |
| Sensitive / Reactive | Replace Rose Hydrosol with Chamomile Hydrosol. Replace Lavender Essential Oil with Chamomile Essential Oil at 0.5%. Add Borage Seed Oil at 5% in Phase B for GLA content. Remove Bakuchi Oil if skin is reactive to retinol-like actives. |
| Combination | Use the base formula as written. Optionally add Niacinamide at 2% in Phase A for pore-minimising and sebum-regulating benefits. |
Frequently Asked Questions
Olivem 1000 is the most widely recommended emulsifier for natural facial moisturisers. It is derived from olive oil, has a skin-identical lipid profile, and produces a silky, elegant emulsion at 3–5% usage. For beginners, Emulsifying Wax NF is more forgiving and produces a stable, creamy lotion. BTMS-50 is an excellent choice for a lightweight, conditioning moisturiser that also works as a hair conditioner base.
Yes — without exception. Any product containing water (including hydrosols like Rose Hydrosol or Lavender Hydrosol) is a growth medium for bacteria, yeast, and mould. A broad-spectrum preservative is a safety requirement, not optional. Preservative Eco at 0.6–1% is a reliable natural-origin option. Phenoxyethanol at 0.5–1% is a widely used synthetic option. Vitamin E and essential oils are antioxidants, not preservatives — they do not protect against microbial contamination.
A facial moisturiser should have a pH of 5.0–6.0 to match the skin's natural acid mantle (pH ~4.5–5.5). A pH that is too high (alkaline) disrupts the acid mantle and can compromise the skin barrier. A pH that is too low can cause irritation. Check pH with a calibrated pH meter after adding Phase D. If adjustment is needed, use a diluted citric acid solution to lower pH, or a diluted sodium bicarbonate solution to raise it. Note that some preservatives (including Preservative Eco) are most effective at pH 4.5–5.5.
Emulsion separation (also called "breaking") is usually caused by one of four issues: insufficient emulsifier percentage (increase to 4–6%), temperature mismatch when combining phases (both phases must be at the same temperature — 70–75°C), insufficient mixing during combination, or incompatible ingredients. If using Olivem 1000, ensure both phases are at 70–75°C and combine Phase A into Phase B (not the reverse). Adding Cetyl Alcohol or Glyceryl Stearate SE at 1–2% as a co-emulsifier significantly improves emulsion stability.
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