If you have ever stood in front of a shelf of beautiful amber bottles wondering which oil to reach for — or spent an afternoon down a rabbit hole of fatty acid charts and comedogenic ratings — you are in exactly the right place. Carrier oils are the backbone of almost every DIY skincare formulation, from the simplest face oil blend to a complex emulsified serum. Yet despite being so fundamental, they are also one of the most misunderstood categories in natural cosmetic formulation.
This guide is written for DIY formulators and small skincare business owners who want to move beyond guesswork and make genuinely informed decisions about which oils to use, why, and in what combinations. We will cover what carrier oils actually are, how to read their key properties, and which oils from The Skin Science Company's carrier oil range are best suited to different skin types and formulation goals.
What Is a Carrier Oil?
A carrier oil is a plant-derived oil — typically cold-pressed or expeller-pressed from seeds, nuts, or kernels — used as the base or "carrier" in cosmetic formulations. The term distinguishes them from essential oils, which are volatile, highly concentrated aromatic compounds that must always be diluted before skin contact. Carrier oils, by contrast, can be applied directly to the skin and form the lipid (oil) phase of most skincare products.
Carrier oils are not simply moisturisers. They are complex biochemical mixtures containing fatty acids, fat-soluble vitamins (particularly vitamin E in the form of tocopherols), phytosterols, polyphenols, and carotenoids. Each of these components contributes differently to skin function — from reinforcing the skin's lipid barrier to providing antioxidant protection against environmental stressors.
It is important to note that all claims in this guide relate strictly to the cosmetic use of these oils. No carrier oil discussed here is intended to diagnose, treat, cure, or prevent any skin condition or disease.
The Key Properties Every Formulator Should Understand
Before selecting a carrier oil, it helps to understand the four core properties that determine how an oil will behave in a formulation and on the skin.
1. Fatty Acid Profile
Every carrier oil is composed primarily of fatty acids — long chains of carbon atoms that determine the oil's texture, absorption speed, stability, and skin feel. The two main categories are:
Saturated fatty acids (such as lauric acid in coconut oil and stearic acid in shea olein) are stable, solid or semi-solid at room temperature, and tend to feel richer and more occlusive on the skin. They are excellent for barrier support and dry skin formulations.
Unsaturated fatty acids are further divided into monounsaturated (such as oleic acid, dominant in argan, marula, and avocado oils) and polyunsaturated (such as linoleic acid, dominant in rosehip, hemp seed, and prickly pear oils). Oleic-rich oils are deeply nourishing and penetrating, making them ideal for dry and mature skin. Linoleic-rich oils are lighter, faster-absorbing, and particularly well-suited to oily, acne-prone, and combination skin types.
A useful rule of thumb: high linoleic = lighter, better for oily/acne-prone skin. High oleic = richer, better for dry/mature skin.
2. Comedogenic Rating
The comedogenic scale rates an ingredient's likelihood of clogging pores, from 0 (non-comedogenic) to 5 (highly comedogenic). This rating is a useful guide — particularly for formulators creating products for oily or acne-prone skin — though it is worth noting that individual skin responses can vary.
For facial formulations targeting oily or breakout-prone skin, staying within the 0–2 range is generally advisable.
3. Absorption Speed
Related to fatty acid profile, absorption speed describes how quickly an oil penetrates the skin's outer layers. Oils high in linoleic acid (like rosehip and prickly pear) absorb quickly and leave a dry, non-greasy finish. Oils high in oleic acid (like marula and argan) absorb more slowly and leave a slight sheen, which can be desirable in a night oil or dry skin formulation.
4. Oxidative Stability
Polyunsaturated fatty acids, while beneficial for the skin, are more susceptible to oxidation — meaning they can go rancid more quickly when exposed to light, heat, and air. Oils like rosehip and seabuckthorn are more delicate: they keep 12 months when stored cool and dark, and are best refrigerated after opening. Adding a small percentage of vitamin E (tocopherol) to your formulation — typically 0.5–1% — acts as a natural antioxidant and extends shelf life.
Choosing the Right Carrier Oil for Your Skin Type
One of the most common questions from new formulators is: "Which oil should I use for [skin type]?" The honest answer is that most formulations benefit from a blend of two or three oils with complementary properties, rather than a single oil. That said, the following profiles provide a solid starting point.
For Oily and Acne-Prone Skin
The goal here is to provide hydration and barrier support without adding heaviness or risking congestion. Oily skin often still benefits from oils. The right lightweight oils leave it feeling balanced rather than stripped.
Jojoba Oil is technically a liquid wax rather than a true oil, which is why it has a comedogenic rating of 0 and an exceptionally long shelf life. Its molecular structure closely resembles the skin's own sebum, which is why it suits oily skin so well. It is one of the most versatile oils in any formulator's toolkit.
Rosehip Oil is extraordinarily high in linoleic acid (approximately 35–40%), giving it a fast-absorbing, non-greasy finish. It is a perennial favourite in Australian skincare for good reason.
Prickly Pear Seed Oil is one of the most linoleic-rich oils available — with some analyses showing linoleic acid content above 60% — and is exceptionally lightweight. It is also one of the most nutrient-dense carrier oils per gram, containing high levels of vitamin K and betalains.
For Dry and Dehydrated Skin
Dry skin benefits from richer, more occlusive oils that slow transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and provide intensive nourishment to a compromised lipid barrier.
Marula Oil is exceptionally high in oleic acid (approximately 70–78%), giving it a deeply nourishing, penetrating quality. It absorbs more readily than many other oleic-rich oils and has a pleasant, light texture that makes it popular in premium facial oil formulations. It is also rich in antioxidants, including tocopherols and catechins.
Argan Oil is another oleic-dominant oil (approximately 43–49% oleic acid) with a significant linoleic acid content (approximately 29–36%), giving it a balanced profile that works well for most skin types. Its high vitamin E content makes it particularly useful for mature or sun-damaged skin.
Sweet Almond Oil is a gentle, affordable, and highly versatile oil with a mild, slightly nutty scent. It is predominantly oleic acid (approximately 62–86%) and absorbs at a medium rate, making it an excellent all-purpose base oil for body lotions, massage oils, and facial formulations alike.
For Mature and Sun-Damaged Skin
Mature skin benefits from oils that provide antioxidant protection, help skin look firmer, and deliver intensive moisture.
Seabuckthorn Oil is one of the most nutrient-dense carrier oils in existence. Its vivid orange colour comes from an extraordinarily high concentration of carotenoids (including beta-carotene and lycopene), and it contains rare palmitoleic acid (omega-7), which is found naturally in human skin and diminishes with age. It is typically used at low percentages (1–3%) due to its intense colour and potency, blended into a lighter base oil.
Bakuchi (Babchi) Oil has gained significant attention as a plant-based alternative to retinol in cosmetic formulations. Rich in psoralen and bakuchiol, it is used in formulations targeting the visible signs of ageing. It is important to note that all such applications are strictly cosmetic in nature.
For Sensitive Skin
Sensitive skin requires oils that are gentle, low in potential irritants, and supportive of the skin barrier without causing reactivity.
Best choices: Sweet Almond Oil, Jojoba Oil
Both oils are well-tolerated by most skin types, have low comedogenic ratings, and are free from strong natural fragrances that can trigger sensitivity reactions. Always patch-test any new oil before incorporating it into a full formulation.
A Quick-Reference Guide to Key Carrier Oils
|
Oil
|
Dominant Fatty Acid
|
Comedogenic Rating
|
Absorption Speed
|
Best For
|
|
Wax esters (unique)
|
0
|
Fast
|
All skin types, oily/acne-prone
|
|
|
Linoleic (35–40%)
|
1
|
Fast
|
Oily, combination, mature
|
|
|
Oleic (43–49%)
|
0–1
|
Medium
|
Dry, normal, mature
|
|
|
Oleic (62–86%)
|
2
|
Medium
|
All skin types, body care
|
|
|
Oleic (70–78%)
|
2
|
Medium-fast
|
Dry, mature
|
|
|
Linoleic (60%+)
|
1
|
Very fast
|
Oily, acne-prone, brightening
|
|
|
Palmitoleic + Linoleic
|
1
|
Medium
|
Mature, sun-damaged (use at 1–3%)
|
|
|
Linoleic + Oleic
|
2
|
Medium
|
Mature, anti-ageing formulations
|
Tips for Blending Carrier Oils
Most experienced formulators do not use a single carrier oil — they blend two or three to achieve a specific skin feel, absorption profile, and nutrient delivery. Here are a few practical principles to guide your blending decisions.
Balance your fatty acids. A blend of one oleic-dominant oil and one linoleic-dominant oil often produces a more balanced skin feel than either alone. For example, combining argan oil (oleic-rich, nourishing) with rosehip oil (linoleic-rich, fast-absorbing) creates a facial oil that is both nourishing and lightweight.
Consider your usage rate. Potent oils like seabuckthorn and bakuchi are best used at low percentages (1–5%) within a larger base of a more neutral oil. This allows you to capture their beneficial properties without overwhelming the formulation.
Add an antioxidant. For any formulation containing oils high in polyunsaturated fatty acids, always include a small amount of vitamin E (tocopherol) at 0.5–1% to protect the oils from oxidation and extend shelf life.
Keep records. When you develop a blend you love, write down the exact percentages. Reproducibility is the foundation of moving from hobby formulation to small batch production.
Other Common Base Oils
The oils above cover most facial formulations, but a few everyday base oils come up in almost every formulator's kit.
Grapeseed Oil is light, fast-absorbing and high in linoleic acid, which makes it an affordable base for oily and combination skin and for massage blends. Like other linoleic-rich oils, it benefits from added vitamin E.
Avocado Oil is rich and oleic-dominant. It suits dry skin, body products and night formulas, and is usually blended with a lighter oil for facial use.
Coconut Oil is high in lauric acid and very stable, but it has a comedogenic rating of around 4, so keep it out of facial products for oily or breakout-prone skin. It works well in body products, or at 2–5% in a blend for dry, non-acne-prone skin. Fractionated coconut oil (Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride) is a much lighter, low-comedogenic alternative.
Castor Oil is mostly ricinoleic acid, which makes it thick, glossy and cushioning. It is used for shine and slip in lip products and hair oils rather than as a main facial oil.
Beyond Oils: Butters and Waxes
Once you move from facial oils to balms, body butters, lip products and bars, you need lipids that are solid at room temperature. Butters add richness and body. Waxes add structure and hardness. You will find both in our Butters and Waxes collection.
Butters
Shea Butter (Butyrospermum Parkii Butter) melts at about 32–38°C and is typically used at 2–15% in emulsions, and at higher levels in anhydrous balms and body butters. It is rich in stearic and oleic acid, widely tolerated, and the most versatile butter for beginners. Unrefined shea keeps its natural colour, scent and more of its unsaponifiable fraction. Refined shea is the better choice when you need a neutral colour and scent.
Cocoa Butter (Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter) melts at 34–38°C and is typically used at 2–10%. It is high in stearic acid and firm, adding hardness to balms and bars.
Mango Butter (Mangifera Indica Seed Butter) melts at 34–38°C and is typically used at 2–10%. It behaves much like shea with a lighter skin feel, which makes it popular in body care.
Kokum Butter (Garcinia Indica Seed Butter) melts at 38–40°C and is typically used at 1–5%. It is very hard and is used mainly in lip products and solid bars.
Avoiding graininess. Shea and cocoa butter can turn grainy because their fats crystallise in more than one form. Melt the butter fully and hold it above its melting point for 15–20 minutes so every crystal form melts, then let the product set in one go rather than sitting half-set. Finished products that melt and re-set in a hot car or bathroom can turn grainy again, so store them somewhere cool.
Waxes
Waxes give structure and hardness to balms, sticks and bars, leave a protective film on the skin, and thicken anhydrous formulas.
Beeswax (Cera Alba) melts at about 62–65°C. It is used at roughly 5–30% in lip balms and body balms, and at 1–5% in emulsions as a thickener and co-emulsifier.
Candelilla Wax is the usual vegan swap for beeswax. It is harder and melts at 68–73°C, so start at around 50–60% of the beeswax quantity.
Carnauba Wax has the highest melting point of the common cosmetic waxes (82–86°C) and is used at 0.5–2% to add hardness and gloss to lip products.
Swapping One Lipid for Another
When you substitute an ingredient in an existing formula, match its fatty acid profile and physical properties as closely as you can. Swapping argan (oleic) for rosehip (linoleic) changes the skin feel, absorption and shelf stability. Swapping shea for kokum makes the product noticeably harder and raises its melting point. Before you swap, compare fatty acid profile, melting point, comedogenic rating (for face products) and oxidative stability.
Where to Source Cosmetic-Grade Carrier Oils in Australia
Not all carrier oils are created equal. For cosmetic formulation, you need oils that are cosmetic-grade — meaning they have been processed, tested, and stored to standards appropriate for skin application. Food-grade oils, while sometimes usable, may contain additives, have inconsistent fatty acid profiles, or lack the documentation (such as a Certificate of Analysis) required for compliant cosmetic manufacturing.
The Skin Science Company stocks over 100 carrier oils, all cosmetic-grade, with fast dispatch from our Melbourne warehouse; see our shipping page for current times. Whether you are sourcing a staple like Jojoba Oil or exploring something more unusual like Prickly Pear Seed Oil or Seabuckthorn Oil, you will find the full range in our Carrier Oils collection.
Ready to Start Formulating?
The best way to learn about carrier oils is to get them in your hands. Start with two or three oils that match your target skin type, blend them in small test batches, and pay attention to how they feel on your skin over time. Keep notes. Adjust. Iterate.
If you are new to formulation, our Carrier Oils collection is a great place to begin browsing and our ingredient library blog has deep-dive guides on many individual oils to help you build your knowledge base.
All products from The Skin Science Company are intended for cosmetic use only. Nothing in this article constitutes medical advice or makes therapeutic claims. Always patch-test new ingredients before incorporating them into a full formulation.
For fatty acid profiles, comedogenic ratings and shelf life of 115 carrier oils and butters, see our Carrier Oils and Butters Data Library.
